Big Island was the first Hawaiian island we visited, and we instantly fell in love with it. The weather was perfect, and we found plenty of opportunities for snorkeling, hiking, breathtaking views, and delicious food. We especially appreciated the warm and welcoming Aloha spirit. We recommend spending about one week exploring Big Island—from the stunning beaches on the west coast to the surprising trails of Volcanoes National Park, and the high mountains in the center of the island (go here to see our posts for each Hawaiian island).

Activities:

Practical information:

• Where to stay? Big Island is big, so we usually stay in two different locations. One is around Kona to enjoy the sunny west coast, and the other is near Hilo or Volcano national park to explore the lush and diverse east side of the island.
• How to go form Point A to point B? You will need to rent a car. If you want to drive yourself to the summit of Mauna Kea you will need a 4-wheel drive vehicle with low gear capability.
• What to bring? In addition to your usual travel gear, we recommend bringing your own snorkeling kit or ensuring your hotel provides one.

West

Kona

Kona is the main city on the west side of Big Island, and the primary airport is located nearby.
This part of the island is almost always sunny, making it ideal for enjoying the sun and the ocean. In Kona, you’ll find a few shops and bars where you can relax while watching the sunset. By driving a bit north or south along the west coast, you can discover stunning beaches and scenic coastal trails.

Honokohau Beach

Just a 10-minute drive north from Kona, you can park near the harbor and reach Honokōhau Beach. From the parking area, a short walk leads to the Aiʻōpio Fish Trap—a small beach with shallow waters and historic Hawaiian structures. From the fish trap, we usually walk north along the shoreline. At low tide, this area reveals a beautiful flat landscape of volcanic rock and tide pools. Sea turtles often hang out here, making it a great spot for wildlife watching. At high tide, the flat area is submerged, and while you can still spot turtles, it’s not quite as magical. We love visiting at low tide for a relaxing one-hour walk along the beach, watching turtles in the afternoon before heading back to Kona for a cocktail.

Manta Ray watching

Watching and Swimming with Manta Ray is an expensive but very enjoyable experience. During our first trip we hesitated a lot due to the cost, and for our second trip it was one of the activity we absolutly wanted to do again. Many companies offer this activity from Kona. On our side we went both time with Kona Snorkel Trips. This company starts from the port near Honokohau beach, the boats are relativly small (about 16 persons max), and it takes about 30min of boat to go from the port to the site which is close by the airport.

The staff use the 30-minute boat ride to explain safety procedures and share information about manta rays. To attract the mantas, they use a floating board equipped with a special light that draws plankton—this, in turn, attracts the manta rays. One of the staff members enters the water with you and asks everyone to hold onto the board and stay as flat as possible. Once everyone is in position, the manta rays glide just beneath the board, creating an unforgettable experience. Our experiences in 2019 and 2024 were very different:

• In 2019, we ended up being the only ones on the boat, so the tour turned into a private experience. It was a sunset tour, and when we arrived at the site, the manta rays weren’t there yet. The guide took us around a bit until we finally found them. The underwater view was stunning, with lots of light and divers. We saw a few manta rays and were amazed by how gracefully they danced through the ocean.
• Our second experience in 2024 was a night tour. The ocean was a bit rough, and visibility in the water wasn’t great. However, we saw many manta rays coming very close to us multiple times. When they’re that close, their size is truly impressive.

Seeing manta rays is an unforgettable experience, and we’ve been lucky to spot them both times.
That said, we have friends who tried the same tour in April and didn’t see any. To increase your chances, you can call ahead before booking to ask if manta rays have been spotted in recent days, or schedule the tour early in your trip. Most companies will offer to reschedule for another day if you don’t see any mantas during your tour.

Captain Cook

Captain Cook is one of the best snorkeling spots on Big Island. It’s accessible via tours (by kayak, boat, or car plus a short walk), but our favorite option is the moderately challenging hiking trail. The trailhead parking is about 30 minutes south of Kona. It’s free and usually easy to find a spot if you arrive early enough. For navigation, you can follow the AllTrails reference: Ka’Awaloa Captain Cook Monument.

The hike descends toward the bay, beginning in an area filled with tall grasses. In 2019, the trail felt poorly maintained, and we weren’t even sure we were on the right path. In 2024, however, the grasses had been recently cleared, and the trail was easy to follow. About halfway down, the scenery changes—the tall grasses give way to beautiful views of the bay and ocean. The vistas are stunning, and you’ll often spot wild goats along the way. The hike ends at the Captain Cook Monument, right by the water.

Snorkeling at Captain Cook can be a bit tricky when entering the water. There’s an old concrete structure you can use to get in, but it doesn’t have ropes or ladders (though some tour groups arriving later may add a temporary ladder). The best method is to sit on the edge of the structure and slide into the water flatly as a wave recedes. The water in the bay is usually very calm, offering excellent visibility and plenty of fish. The only downside is that the coral isn’t very colorful.

We usually leave when too many groups start arriving and before the temperature gets too hot for the hike back to the car. We recommend bringing plenty of water and wearing good shoes for the hike. It’s not a difficult trail, but the heat can make it more challenging. This hike/snorkeling combo is one of our favorites, and we highly recommend it. Once you’re back at the parking area, you can check out nearby restaurants. Several places just south of the trailhead offer stunning views of the bay and great food. (You may need to book ahead or wait a bit for a table.)

Two Step Beach and Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park

A little further south from Captain Cook, you’ll find Two Step Beach and Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park. Two Step is a great snorkeling spot, though parking can be challenging. The historical park offers fascinating insights into traditional Hawaiian life and also serves as a convenient parking area for Two Step. (In 2024, access to the park and parking was included with the National Park Pass.) The park features an interesting self-guided walking tour. You can also use the NPS app to access a recorded audio guide that describes the various features along the way. It’s definitely worth exploring if you’re in the area.

Two Step offers snorkeling conditions similar to Captain Cook: calm waters and lots of fish. Entering the water here is a bit unique—watch a video or observe others before trying it yourself. You’ll need to sit or stand on a rock and go into the water as a wave recedes, using the same technique to exit. If done correctly, access is quite easy. Just like at Captain Cook, once you’re done snorkeling, you can explore restaurants along Mamalahoa Highway between Two Step and Captain Cook. Several spots offer stunning views of the bay and delicious food.

Pololu valley

Pololū Trail is a short hike (1.4 km with 105 m of elevation gain) leading to a beautiful black sand beach. The trail begins at the Pololū Valley Lookout, located on the northern tip of Big Island—about a 1 hour and 30 minute drive from Kona. It’s best to do this hike at sunrise, when parking is easier and temperatures are cooler. We first did it in 2009, waking up early due to jet lag. We arrived about 30 minutes after sunrise, which was still a great time, though catching the actual sunrise would have been even better.

Parking at the lookout is limited, but the view from there is already impressive. The trail down to the beach is steep but wide. Once you reach the beach, the scenery is stunning—ocean waves, dramatic cliffs, and lush forest. We were nearly alone, sharing the beach with just a local surfer and another couple.

In 2019, the trail to the Honokane Nui Lookout was open (continuing southeast and climbing the next hill), and it was a fantastic addition to the hike. We didn’t try it in 2024, but according to AllTrails, the trail was marked as closed. Pololū Valley is a great option if you wake up early and want to catch the sunrise. After the hike, you can explore some of the beaches along the way back to Kona.

North west coast beaches

The northwest coast of Big Island features many beautiful white sand beaches worth exploring. Some of these beaches are tucked within resort properties, but they should always be publicly accessible:

• Mauna Kea Beach is one of the most renowned beaches on the island. It’s accessible by car through the luxurious Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. If you arrive early enough, security will allow you in to use one of the limited parking spots reserved for non-hotel guests. We haven’t tried it, but Google Maps shows a trail from Hapuna Beach that could be a fun alternative. We visited Mauna Kea Beach in 2019—it’s a lovely beach, though we weren’t impressed by the snorkeling. Visiting outside of winter, when ocean conditions are better, might improve the experience.
• Hapuna Beach is a spacious beach park with ample parking. (In 2019, there was a reasonable parking fee.) There’s no snorkeling here, but it’s a great spot to relax and play in the waves. After an early morning hike in Pololū Valley, we spent time at Hapuna and then had lunch at the poolside restaurant at the Westin, which was surprisingly good and reasonably priced at the time.
• Kīholo State Park might be interesting for camping. We visited midday and felt it could have been skipped. You can walk along the coast and occasionally spot turtles in the water.
• Waiulua Bay (just north of Waikoloa Beach) isn’t really a beach, but in 2024, we went for a morning run near the Hilton Waikoloa Village. It’s a great area for running—you can pass by the resort lagoon, where turtles are often seen, and follow the coastline. While access to resort areas may be limited, Hawaiian coastlines are public by law. We wouldn’t stay at the resort, but it’s fun to explore and might be a great spot to enjoy the sunset.

Food and bar in Kona

• Ola Brew is the best option in terms of quality. The beer and food are both excellent. The only downside is its location—tucked inside Kona’s industrial area, which isn’t the most scenic setting.
• Kona Brewing Co. has a cool location and a good selection of merchandise.Unfortunately, the drink quality doesn’t quite match that of Ola Brew.
• Aliʻi Drive in Kona is a great spot for a sunset walk. There are plenty of bars and restaurants along the way. While we weren’t particularly impressed by the food or drink quality at any of them, we still had a great time enjoying the sunset. We tried Island Lava Java, which we loved in 2019 but found disappointing in 2024, and Da Shark Shack, which was just okay.
• One of the best options for both price and quality is often to grab a poke bowl from Safeway and enjoy it at your residence or lodging.

East

Hilo

Hilo is the largest city on Big Island. Located on the east side of the island, the weather here is much more humid, and you can expect frequent rain. Hilo is a great base for exploring Volcanoes National Park, enjoying scenic ocean parks, and visiting impressive waterfalls.

The city itself isn’t particularly exciting to explore, but if you’re looking for a pleasant morning walk or run, check out the area around Liliʻuokalani Gardens and Reeds Bay Beach Park. The garden is lovely, and the area features beautiful banyan trees.

Carlsmith and Richardson Ocean Park

Carlsmith Beach Park and Richardson Ocean Park are located east of Hilo. Both are lovely beach parks with opportunities for snorkeling and frequent turtle sightings. They’re perfect spots to relax after a day of hiking in Volcanoes National Park. Both locations offer shallow, protected waters. At Carlsmith, the area surrounding the water resembles a landscaped garden, with grassy areas and freshwater streams flowing into the small bay. Richardson features a small black sand beach and dark volcanic rocks. For both locations, water shoes are recommended to make entering the water easier.

Akaka falls and Rainbows fall

Akaka Falls is located a bit north of Hilo. We visited in 2019, arriving around noon when the parking lot was full. Luckily, we found a free spot along the road and only had to pay the entrance fee for the falls area. Inside, there’s a well-maintained 30-minute paved loop trail that takes you through bamboo groves and vibrant tropical flowers. The waterfall itself is impressive, though the lighting made it difficult to capture good photos.

Rainbow Falls is located within Hilo. It’s a quick stop with a parking area and a scenic viewpoint. While there’s not much to do around it, it’s a pleasant spot for a picnic or a short break during your drive..

Food and bar in Hilo

• The Hidden Nene is a small cocktail bar in downtown Hilo that pleasantly surprised us in 2024. We visited during happy hour on a rainy evening and had a great time.
• Ola Brew (Hilo location) is situated in the industrial area of the city, similar to its Kona counterpart. Despite the location, the drinks—mainly beers and creative seltzers—are excellent, and the food is also very good.
• KTA Super Stores is one of the best places to grab poke in Hilo. They offer a wide variety of options along with rice. If you go late in the evening, choices may be limited, but around noon it’s perfect for picking up a picnic.

Other ideas in Hilo:

• In 2019, we had some extra time and visited the Hilo Zoo. It was a pleasant stop for a couple of hours, with affordable entry, nice gardens, and a variety of animals.
• North of Hilo, the Hawaiʻi Tropical Botanical Garden looks interesting. We haven’t visited yet, but we did drive along the Old Mamalahoa Highway, which already offers beautiful views of tropical plants and the ocean.
• Further north, Waipiʻo Valley used to be a major attraction. As of 2024, access to the valley requires either lodging within the valley or joining a private tour. We stopped at the lookout, which offers a nice view, but we didn’t feel it was worth the drive.

South East

The Southeast region and Volcanoes National Park are must-see destinations on Big Island. This area is less populated and has fewer lodging options. (Volcano Village, located near the park, does offer accommodations, though they can be a bit pricey.)

Volcano National Park

We’ve never had the chance to see live lava during our visits, but we’ve always enjoyed our time in the park. (In 2019, we visited one year after the 2018 eruption ended, and in 2024, we left just a few hours before a new eruption began.)

Kīlauea iki trail: We hiked this trail (5.1 km 226m elevation) counterclockwise in both 2019 and 2024 and loved it. It starts in the forest, descends into the crater, and climbs back up through the forest. The crater is fascinating, with ʻōhiʻa lehua trees (small trees with red flowers) and lush ferns growing in the cracks of the volcanic rock. If you park at the Thurston Lava Tube lot, you can also do the short loop to visit the lava tube.

Uēaloha Byron Ledge and Halema’uma’u Loop: This excellent loop 6 km loop (6km 169m elevation) includes a wide veriety of sights:

• Sulphur Banks Trail – a short, scenic trail with volcanic steam vents.
• Crater Rim Trail – offering views of the main crater.
• Iliahi Trail – descending into the crater through a lush, humid forest filled with ferns.
• Byron Ledge Trail – bringing you to crater level.
• The loop finishes by climbing back up via the Crater Rim Trail, with more stunning views.

Some additional activities:

• Crater Rim Drive and Chain of Craters Road to the Hōlei Sea Arch is a scenic drive with many stops offering crater views and lava flow vistas. Doing the full drive with stops takes about 2 hours.
• In 2019, we hiked to the Puʻu Huluhulu Overlook. It was a decent hike, though not our favorite. Rangers recommended continuing to Mauna Ulu Crater from this trail, but we couldn’t find the way.
• In 2024, we tried the Devastation Trail, located south of the Kīlauea Iki Trail. It was interesting but skippable if you’re short on time.
• We also tried the Kīpuka Puaulu Trail, north of the main entrance. We don’t recommend it, as we didn’t find anything particularly noteworthy.

Green Sand Beach

We did Green sand beach in 2019 early in the morning. (AllTrails Ref: “Papakolea Green Sand Beach“). The trail to Green Sand Beach follows the coastline along various 4×4 tracks. In the early morning, the temperature is perfect, and we arrived first at the beach. From the top, we descended a steep path to reach the shore. The sand is beautiful—more golden-brown than truly green. We spent some time enjoying the beach until the first 4×4 vehicles arrived with tourists. The walk back was slightly more challenging due to the rising temperature. It’s not a difficult hike, but be sure to bring water. It’s a lovely area, though the 4×4 tours can make it feel less peaceful—unless that’s the kind of experience you’re looking for.

Punalu’u Beach (black sand beach)

This beach often has sea turtles resting on the shore. In 2019, we arrived early with breakfast from Punaluʻu Bake Shop, and it was magical to see turtles coming out of the water to rest. In 2024, we arrived later in the day, and the beach was too crowded to fully enjoy. We recommend visiting early or late, or just making a quick stop.

Food and drinks

• Punalu’u Bake Shop in Naalehu is a must-stop! Their fresh malasadas with haupia (coconut pudding), lilikoi (passion fruit), or guava are delicious. They also offer coffee and a gift shop. If you’re driving from Kona to Volcanoes National Park via the southern route, this bake shop makes a perfect first stop—and you can enjoy your breakfast at the black sand beach on your way to Volcano.
• If you are around Pahala, the Kaʻū Coffee Mill has coffee tasting, tours, and gift shop. We did it in 2024 and found it to be a great spot for picking up coffee as gift.
• The Aloha Mix Food truck Cafe in Naalehu is a great option for food. We stopped by in 2019 and 2024 (in 2024 there was a network connection issue and we had to pay cash (all the ATM in the area were also not working due to the network issue)).

Center: Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea

This central region can be explored during a transfer between Hilo and Kona or as a day trip from either city. The main attractions are the two summits, but AllTrails also lists a few short hikes in the area that look interesting—though we haven’t tried them yet.

Mauna Loa

(Closed in 2024 due to road closures following an eruption.)
In 2019, we attempted the hike to the summit of Mauna Loa. We started early and enjoyed the sunrise while driving up the narrow Mauna Loa Observatory Road. The hike (20.6km and 838m elevation)  (AllTrails ref “Mauna Load via Observatory Trail and Summit Trail“) is very challenging due to the high altitude. It begins at around 3350m and finishes at 4169m.

The landscape is stunning, though quite monotone, with endless shades of dark volcanic rock. In some sections, there’s no defined path—just cairns to guide you. When we attempted the hike, we had to turn back after gaining about 500 m in elevation. We were moving slower than usual, and the environment felt a bit eerie—lifeless and with very few other hikers.

Even though we didn’t reach the crater, it was still a memorable and worthwhile experience.

Mauna Kea

The summit of Mauna Kea can be reached by car if you have a 4×4 with low gear. The summit (13,803 ft / 4,207 m) itself is not accessible due to its cultural significance to Native Hawaiians, but you can get very close—near the observatories. It’s an incredible place to watch the sunset. To do this on your own, you’ll need to plan ahead.

In 2024, we visited Mauna Kea while transferring from Hilo to Kona. We arrived at the visitor center at least two hours before sunset, giving us time to take a short acclimatization walk to Puʻukalepeamoa. After about 30 minutes, we began the drive to the summit. Rangers check that you know how to use your vehicle’s low gear before allowing you to proceed. It’s not technically difficult, but you must know how to descend safely without overheating your brakes.

At the summit, we parked west of the United Kingdom Infrared Telescope and enjoyed the sunset with some snacks we had packed. The views were breathtaking in every direction—west toward the sunset, and north toward Maui and the other telescopes. The temperature dropped to around 0°C (32°F), so warm clothing is essential.

The descent was smooth—just be patient and use low gear. Rangers will check your brake temperature at the visitor center on the way down. If you’re into stargazing, the visitor center is also a great place to spend the evening.

Important Notes:
This is an incredible experience you can do independently, but preparation is key:

• Bring a suitable vehicle (4×4 with low gear)
• Dress warmly
• Check weather and road conditions in advance
• Be aware that roads can be closed due to snow or other hazards

Map

You can use the Map below to see the full itinerary!